Clinging to a limestone ledge at 480 metres, Baunei is the gateway to the seaside Supramonte: from here you climb to the Golgo and descend to the Mediterranean's finest coves. A shepherds' village turned trekking capital.
Baunei's seaside hamlet, Santa Maria Navarrese is Ogliastra's living room by the sea: strolls beneath thousand-year olives, aperitifs at the marina and departures for all the wonders of the Gulf of Orosei.
Resting on the plain between the sea and the limestone heels, Lotzorai is a village of orchards, vineyards and long beaches: everyday, authentic Sardinia, where tourism lives alongside farming life.
Just over a thousand inhabitants between the sea and Mount Olinie: Triei is Ogliastra without performance. Life here is shepherding, vineyards and country festivals — and this is the land I Mandorli calls home.
Ogliastra's "capital" and its port: Tortolì means markets, gelaterie and small-town bustle; Arbatax means the red porphyry rocks, ferries and the tuna fisheries of the past. Together, the (so to speak) urban side of this coast.
Squeezed between two limestone bastions, Ulassai is Ogliastra's museum-village: here Maria Lai stitched art to the landscape, climbers scale the heels and the Su Marmuri caves descend into the mountain's heart.
An entire village frozen in time: after the 1951 flood, Gairo was abandoned and rebuilt higher up. Its empty houses, clinging to the slope, are among inland Sardinia's most evocative and photographed places.
Eight hundred hectares of vines clinging to the heels and a cooperative winery telling Cannonau's story since 1950: Jerzu doesn't just make wine, it breathes it.
People here live longer than almost anywhere on Earth: Ogliastra is the heart of the first blue zone researchers ever identified. Not a genetic mystery, but a way of life — one you can taste on holiday.
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