Villages

The houses of Baunei clinging to the mountain

Baunei

Clinging to a limestone ledge at 480 metres, Baunei is the gateway to the seaside Supramonte: from here you climb to the Golgo and descend to the Mediterranean's finest coves. A shepherds' village turned trekking capital.

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The marina of Santa Maria Navarrese

Santa Maria Navarrese

Baunei's seaside hamlet, Santa Maria Navarrese is Ogliastra's living room by the sea: strolls beneath thousand-year olives, aperitifs at the marina and departures for all the wonders of the Gulf of Orosei.

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The Lotzorai countryside at sunset

Lotzorai

Resting on the plain between the sea and the limestone heels, Lotzorai is a village of orchards, vineyards and long beaches: everyday, authentic Sardinia, where tourism lives alongside farming life.

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Stone houses in the Triei countryside

Triei

Just over a thousand inhabitants between the sea and Mount Olinie: Triei is Ogliastra without performance. Life here is shepherding, vineyards and country festivals — and this is the land I Mandorli calls home.

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The Red Rocks of Arbatax at sunset

Tortolì and Arbatax

Ogliastra's "capital" and its port: Tortolì means markets, gelaterie and small-town bustle; Arbatax means the red porphyry rocks, ferries and the tuna fisheries of the past. Together, the (so to speak) urban side of this coast.

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The limestone heels towering over Ulassai

Ulassai

Squeezed between two limestone bastions, Ulassai is Ogliastra's museum-village: here Maria Lai stitched art to the landscape, climbers scale the heels and the Su Marmuri caves descend into the mountain's heart.

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The abandoned houses of Gairo Vecchio

Gairo Vecchio

An entire village frozen in time: after the 1951 flood, Gairo was abandoned and rebuilt higher up. Its empty houses, clinging to the slope, are among inland Sardinia's most evocative and photographed places.

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Jerzu's vineyards beneath the limestone heels

Jerzu, the Wine Town

Eight hundred hectares of vines clinging to the heels and a cooperative winery telling Cannonau's story since 1950: Jerzu doesn't just make wine, it breathes it.

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The slow countryside of Ogliastra, land of centenarians

Ogliastra, Land of Centenarians

People here live longer than almost anywhere on Earth: Ogliastra is the heart of the first blue zone researchers ever identified. Not a genetic mystery, but a way of life — one you can taste on holiday.

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