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Ogliastra travel guide | What to see and do

Ogliastra guide: what to see and do

An editorial guide to Ogliastra written by the owners of I Mandorli Boutique Country Retreat. Six sections: beaches, hiking, villages, archaeology, food, itineraries.

Beaches

Cala dei Gabbiani — Cala dei Gabbiani, Cala Mariolu's quiet sister: how to get there, why choose it and when to go. Local guide by I Mandorli.

Cala Goloritzé — Cala Goloritzé: how to hike in from the Golgo plateau, when to go, mandatory booking and practical tips. Stay 40 minutes away at Agriturismo I Mandorl

Cala Luna — Cala Luna between Baunei and Dorgali: beach caves, the hike from Cala Fuili, the lagoon. Practical tips and where to stay in Ogliastra.

Cala Mariolu — Cala Mariolu (Ispuligidenie): how to arrive by boat or on foot, the famous pink and white pebbles, when to go. Ideal base: I Mandorli Boutique Country Retreat, Ogl

Cala Sisine — Cala Sisine, the wildest cove of the Gulf of Orosei: how to arrive by sea or via the Sisine canyon, what to bring, when to go.

Lido di Orrì — Lido di Orrì in Tortolì: 8 km of white sand and shallow sea, perfect for families. Coves, facilities, when to go. 20 minutes from I Mandorli.

Piscine di Venere — The Piscine di Venere in Baunei: what they are, how to visit by boat, snorkelling in the clearest water of the Gulf of Orosei.

Santa Maria Navarrese Beach — Santa Maria Navarrese beach: sand and pebbles beneath thousand-year-old olive trees, the Spanish tower, the harbour for the coves. 10 minutes from I M

Hiking and trails

Gorropu Gorge — The Gorropu Gorge from Urzulei or S'Abba Arva: routes, difficulty and tips. Where to stay: farm stay with pool in Triei, a quiet Ogliastra base.

Kayaking the Baunei Coast — Kayaking the Gulf of Orosei: routes from Santa Maria Navarrese and Cala Gonone, rentals, safety and paddle-in coves.

Punta Giradili — Punta Giradili: the panoramic loop above Pedra Longa, Ogliastra's most spectacular balcony. Route, times and tips from I Mandorli.

Selvaggio Blu — Selvaggio Blu: Italy's most famous and demanding trek, from Pedra Longa to Cala Sisine. Stages, difficulty, logistics and where to stay before and aft

Cala Goloritzé Trail — The Su Porteddu to Cala Goloritzé trail step by step: times, elevation, what to bring, where to park. The practical guide by I Mandorli.

Pedra Longa Trail — The coastal walk from Santa Maria Navarrese to Pedra Longa: easy, scenic, for everyone. Times, route and practical tips.

Villages

Baunei — Baunei, gateway to the Supramonte: trails, coves and the Golgo plateau. Where to stay: farm stay with pool 8 km away, ideal for couples and families.

Gairo Vecchio — Gairo Vecchio, Ogliastra's ghost town: the story of the 1951 flood, walking among the abandoned houses, how to get there.

Jerzu, the Wine Town — Jerzu, capital of Cannonau: the wineries, the wine festival, the limestone heels above the town. What to see and taste.

Lotzorai — Lotzorai and its beaches: Iscrixedda, Pollu, Lido delle Rose. Where to stay near the sea: farm stay with pool 13 minutes away, in Triei.

Santa Maria Navarrese — Santa Maria Navarrese: harbour for Cala Mariolu and Goloritzé, beaches and walks. Where to stay nearby: farm stay with pool in Triei, 14 minutes away.

Tortolì and Arbatax — Tortolì and Arbatax: Lido di Orrì, red rocks and services. Where to stay with a pool away from traffic: farm stay in Triei, 18 minutes from the sea.

Triei — Triei, Ogliastra: what to see and why it is the perfect base. 10 minutes from Baunei and the coves' harbour, with a farm stay with pool, breakfast and

Ulassai — Ulassai, Maria Lai's village among the Ogliastra heels: open-air art, climbing, the Su Marmuri caves and the Lequarci waterfall.

Archaeology

Serbissi Nuraghe — The Serbissi nuraghe in Osini: the fortress at 1000 metres on the Ogliastra heels, with karst cave and endless views. How to visit.

S'Ortali 'e su Monti — The S'Ortali 'e su Monti archaeological park in Tortolì: nuraghe, giants' tomb, menhirs and rock-cut tombs in one seaside site.

Osono Giants' Tomb — The Osono giants' tomb in Triei: the Nuragic monument in the woods, how to get there, what to look for. 5 minutes from I Mandorli.

The Nuragic Golgo and San Pietro — The Golgo plateau: Nuragic betyls, the San Pietro church and the Su Sterru chasm — Baunei's mystical archaeology.

Flavours

Cannonau of Ogliastra — Ogliastra's Cannonau, the centenarians' wine: heroic vineyards, the Jerzu and Tortolì wineries, tastings and myths.

Culurgiones of Ogliastra — Ogliastra's PGI culurgiones: the wheat-ear filled pasta, the traditional recipe, where to eat them and why they were born here.

Pistoccu Bread — Ogliastra's pistoccu bread: the shepherds' twice-baked bread, how to eat it, where to buy it and its ancient story.

Seadas with Strawberry-Tree Honey — Seadas: the Sardinian shepherds' dessert with fresh cheese and bitter strawberry-tree honey. History, recipe and where to eat them in Ogliastra.

Su Porcheddu — Su porcheddu, Sardinian roast suckling pig: slow fire, myrtle, where to eat it in Ogliastra and why it is a ritual, not a dish.

Itineraries

Ogliastra in September — Ogliastra holidays in September: warm sea, half-empty coves, grape harvest and perfect trekking weather. Why it is the best month.

October in Ogliastra — October in Ogliastra: sea above 21°C, golden-light hiking, wineries and harvest. Authentic off-season Sardinia, rooms from €80 per night.

September in Ogliastra — September in Ogliastra: 22–24°C sea, uncrowded coves, hiking and harvest. Guide to Sardinia's best month, with rooms from €90 per night.

The Trenino Verde — Ogliastra's Trenino Verde: Italy's most scenic heritage railway from Arbatax towards the heels. Times, routes and tips.

A Week in Ogliastra — 7-day Ogliastra itinerary: Gulf of Orosei coves, trekking, villages, archaeology and food. The day-by-day plan from I Mandorli.

An Authentic Ogliastra Weekend — 48 hours in Ogliastra beyond the clichés: villages, giants' tombs, one hard-earned cove and shepherds' cooking.

Boutique Country Retreat in Ogliastra, Sardinia: 9 rooms, 42 m² Sa Barza pool among almond trees, breakfast, silence and nature.