Ogliastra's "capital" and its port: Tortolì means markets, gelaterie and small-town bustle; Arbatax means the red porphyry rocks, ferries and the tuna fisheries of the past. Together, the (so to speak) urban side of this coast.
The Red Rocks
Arbatax's symbol: red porphyry spires polished by the sea, spectacular at sunset and in winter storms. Beside them, the small beach of the same name and the pier where the fishing fleet returns.
Everyday Tortolì
On Wednesday mornings the market fills the centre with cheeses, vegetables and pistoccu bread: the right place to stock your holiday pantry. All around, historic shops, Cannonau wine bars and the gelaterie where every Ogliastra evening stroll ends.
Why stop by
It is the "errand day" stop: proper shopping, the Trenino Verde heritage railway, ferry departures. But it also hides unexpected corners, like the Tortolì lagoon with its flamingos and the fish farm selling mullet and bream straight off the boat.