Ogliastra is Sardinia's most isolated coast — its blessing, and your only effort. Here are real travel times and the tricks of people who drive these roads all their lives.
From the airports
From Cagliari: SS125 or the faster SS131-Nuoro route; either way about 2 hours, the last half of which already feels like holiday. From Olbia: the coastal SS125 via Dorgali — 2 documentary-worthy hours over the 1,000 m Genna 'e Silana pass. Fill the tank before the mountain stretches and drive in daylight the first time.
The smart ferry
In summer, direct ferries to Arbatax (from Civitavecchia) land twenty minutes from I Mandorli: perfect if you travel with your own car and want to wake up already in Ogliastra.
Do you need a car?
Honestly, yes: the wonders are scattered and buses rare. In return, there are no queues, parking is easy and every road is scenic. The journey isn't the price of the destination — it's already part of it.